Built for Upstate slabs — red clay below, roughly forty freeze-thaw cycles above each winter. Our own crews grind, coat and finish your garage in a single day, with a transferable 25-year warranty.
Why Greenville Homeowners Call Apex First for Epoxy Floor Coatings
01
Free Quote
An itemized price at your estimate. The invoice matches it.
02
Diamond-Grind Prep
We never acid-etch. Diamond grinding is the only prep that opens concrete deep enough for a coating to hold.
03
1-Day Install
Walk on it in 4 hours. Drive on it in 24.
04
25-Year Warranty
Transferable to the next owner and backed by the local Apex location that installed it.
500+Garage Floors
“I’m so happy with my coating! These folks are wonderful at what they do.”
— RODNEY ARNOLD, Google Review
“Elite level flooring from Apex. They use a commercial grade product that lasts a lifetime.”
— CARTER HALL, Google Review
“Apex Epoxy Flooring did a great job on my basement. The crew was easy to deal with and knew what they were doing. Can’t wait to have them do my garage next.”
— ROBERT LAWSON, Google Review
4.8
Based on 208 Google reviews
Industries We Serve
Epoxy Floor Coating for Greenville Garages, Homes & Businesses
Every floor here takes a different beating — we build the system to match. Hover any industry to see the fit.
Explore our most popular flake, metallic, solid-color and marble finishes. We bring physical samples to every free in-home estimate so you can see them on your slab.
Every layer chosen for Piedmont slab moisture, Upstate freeze-thaw, and the demands of a real garage floor.
01
Prepared Concrete Slab diamond-ground to CSP-2/3
Your existing slab, mechanically profiled to a Concrete Surface Profile of 2 to 3. Cracks patched. Moisture verified. Every layer above only lasts if this one is right.
A pigmented, self-leveling 100%-solids epoxy rolled wet-on-wet directly onto the diamond-ground slab. Delivers the color depth and the film thickness that separates a real floor from a paint job.
03
Vinyl Flake Broadcast hand-cast to full rejection
Vinyl chip flakes hand-broadcast into the wet basecoat until the surface refuses more. Scraped flat and vacuumed once it sets. Color, camouflage, and slip-grip in one.
This is the layer that meets the tires. An aliphatic polyaspartic — aromatic ones yellow — seals the flake, holds color through July sun, and stands up to road brine. The 25-year warranty lives here.
Our Epoxy Floor Installation Process
1
Free Estimate
A free in-home walk-through, real flake samples, no sales pitch.
2
Diamond Grind
We mechanically diamond-grind your slab to the right profile.
3
Application
100% solids epoxy, flake broadcast, and polyaspartic topcoat.
4
Final Walk-Thru
We walk the finished floor with you before we leave.
Ready to Book Your Free Estimate?
We bring samples to you, read the slab, and quote most Greenville garages the same day.
Actual Apex jobs — Upstate garages, basements, shops, and warehouses. Pull the gold handle across any image to see what came off and what went on. Drag the gold handle on any floor to reveal the finished result.
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BEFOREAFTER
Warehouse Floor·Industrial·drag to compare
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BEFOREAFTER
2-Car Garage·Residential·Gray Flake Epoxy·drag to compare
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BEFOREAFTER
Commercial Kitchen·Commercial·drag to compare
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BEFOREAFTER
Basement·Residential·Metallic Epoxy·drag to compare
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BEFOREAFTER
Stadium Concourse·Commercial·drag to compare
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BEFOREAFTER
Garage, Repaired Slab·Residential·Flake Epoxy·drag to compare
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BEFOREAFTER
Veterinary Kennel·Commercial·drag to compare
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BEFOREAFTER
Basement·Residential·Tan Flake Epoxy·drag to compare
Your price comes down to the finish you choose and the condition of your slab. These are honest, installed starting prices for a typical Greenville 2-car and 3-car garage.
Finish
Starting Price
2-Car (~450 sq ft)
3-Car (~650 sq ft)
Best For
Solid Epoxy
$4per sq ft
~$1,800
~$2,600
Clean, budget-friendly single color
Flake EpoxyMost Popular
$6per sq ft
$2,700$2,300
$3,900$2,700
Most garages — hides flaws, adds grip
Quartz Epoxy
$6per sq ft
~$2,700
~$3,900
Maximum slip resistance & durability
Metallic Epoxy
$9per sq ft
~$4,050
~$5,850
High-end, marbled showpiece look
Your firm number comes at the free in-home estimate, and it doesn't move.
Serving the Greater Greenville, SC Area
Epoxy Flooring Across the Upstate
Professional epoxy & garage floor coatings across Greenville and the surrounding Upstate communities.
Upgrade Your Greenville Garage Floor in 1 Day - Free Estimate
Book Your Trusted Greenville Epoxy Flooring Contractor - Free Quote
Free Consultation
Contact us today for a no-cost consultation where we evaluate your flooring needs, provide an estimated price based on square footage, and recommend the best epoxy flooring solutions tailored specifically for you.
Diamond Grinding Floor Prep
We use a diamond propane grinder to meticulously prepare your floor, ensuring a smooth, flawless surface that maximizes the adhesion and longevity of your epoxy floor coating.
Multi-Layered Epoxy Floor Installation
Our team applies multiple layers of premium epoxy resin flooring, each layer enhancing the durability, aesthetics, and overall performance of your new epoxy floor.
Curing & Final Inspection
We ensure the epoxy floor coating cures properly to achieve maximum strength and conduct a thorough final inspection to guarantee your complete satisfaction with the finished project.
Polyaspartic or Epoxy: Which Is Better for a Garage Floor?
Polyaspartic
Fast & UV-Safe
Walk-on in ~4 hours
Won’t yellow under UV
Resists hot-tire pickup
Epoxy
Thick & Rich
Deepest color & film build
Most budget-friendly
Rock-hard once cured
The Apex Answer
We use both — that is the whole point. Epoxy goes down first because it grips the ground profile and builds the film thickness you are paying for. Aliphatic polyaspartic goes over the top because it holds its color in daylight and takes a car in 24 hours. Run them in that order and neither material has to do the other one’s job.
Greenville Epoxy FAQs
Answers From Our Epoxy Flooring Professionals
The questions Greenville homeowners actually search before coating a garage floor — answered honestly, including the downsides.
Our flake system is $2,300 for a standard 2-car and $2,700 for a 3-car — that's the installed number, not a starting point. Most 2-car garages we quote land somewhere in the $1,800 to $2,700 band. The broader industry works off $5 to $15 per square foot, and where a job falls in that spread comes down almost entirely to slab condition. You'll leave your free estimate with one firm price.
Twenty by twenty works out to 400 square feet — normal 2-car territory, so figure the $2,300 flake price on a slab in decent shape. What moves that number is what shows up under the grinder: wide cracks, pitting along the door line, or an old paint or sealer that has to come off first. We'll put that on the estimate before we start, not halfway through the day.
National figures put a professional install at $1,500 to $4,000, with big-box DIY kits at $300 to $900. Around here we quote in the $1,800 to $2,700 band for a real coating. When a bid comes in dramatically under that, something's been left out. Usually it's the grinding, sometimes it's film thickness, often it's both.
Prep is the variable — the coating itself is close to a commodity. A $900 number buys a bucket of product and an afternoon with a roller. A real quote covers mechanically diamond-grinding the slab to a CSP 2–3 profile, filling cracks and pits, and taking a moisture reading before anything goes down. That gap is why one Greenville floor is still tight at twenty years and another lets go at two.
Line by line: diamond-grind prep to a CSP 2–3 profile, crack and pit repair, moisture testing, a 100%-solids pigmented epoxy basecoat, vinyl flake broadcast to full rejection, a UV-stable polyaspartic topcoat, and a transferable 25-year warranty. There's no trip charge, no fuel surcharge, and nothing gets tacked on once the crew is already in your driveway.
Against tile, yes, by a wide margin once labor's counted — and garage tile brings grout lines that crack, stain, and trap road grit. Polished concrete lands in similar territory on price, but polishing leaves you with gray concrete: no color, no flake, and a surface that still drinks oil. A coating seals the slab. Polishing only smooths it.
Done right, it changes how you use the room. A bare Upstate slab sheds dust, absorbs oil, and stains from the red clay that rides in on tires and boots. A coated one gets swept or hosed and looks the same afterward. The whole proposition rests on preparation, though — coating rolled over an unground slab is money you'll end up spending twice.
There are three real ones. Cheap epoxy peels. Straight epoxy ambers under sunlight. And any glossy coating turns slick with water on it. We answer the first with mechanical grinding for the bond, the second with a UV-stable polyaspartic wear layer instead of leaving epoxy exposed, and the third with a full flake broadcast. We'd rather name the drawbacks than let you find them in year three.
Two situations. If water's moving up through the slab from the clay underneath and nothing's been done about it, a coating traps it and blisters. If the slab is heaving or cracking structurally, a coating hides a problem that's still moving. We moisture-test at the estimate for exactly this reason, and if your slab isn't a candidate we'll say so rather than take the job.
Bare gloss can be, and that's exactly why we don't leave a floor bare gloss. Flake and quartz build the wear surface out of thousands of hard chips, so what you end up walking on reads slightly coarse rather than glassy. That's worth something on an icy February morning, when the car pulls in still dripping meltwater and whatever brine the road crews laid down. For wash-down bays or a steep apron, we'll add slip aggregate to the topcoat.
Not the way a kitchen does on an appraisal — but it's one of the cheapest visible upgrades in the house. Buyers walking a Five Forks or Simpsonville listing register a finished garage floor in about two seconds, and it reads as a home that's been looked after. Our 25-year warranty transfers to the next owner, which is worth a line in the listing.
Ten to twenty years is the honest professional range, and floors with proper prep under them routinely run past it. The two-to-five-year failures people write about online are almost always thin, water-based kit products laid over an acid-etched slab. Ours carries a 25-year warranty, and it's the prep that makes that number possible — the grind, the repairs, the moisture reading.
Honestly, boring — and boring is the goal. The color and the flake pattern look the way they did on install day, and the only change most people can point to is a little less shine in the two lanes the tires travel. The floors that don't age that way give themselves away well before year five: a yellow cast creeping across whatever the afternoon sun reaches, then chipping at the door line where winter grit and brine collect, and eventually the coating lifting in rings where the car sits. None of that is a five-year problem. It's a prep problem that took five years to finish showing up.
Peeling and lifting trace back to bond. Bubbling traces back to moisture. Both are preparation problems, and industry summaries put as much as 80% of coating failures on surface prep alone. We profile every slab to CSP 2–3 with a diamond grinder so the system has mechanical tooth to hold, and we take a moisture reading before a drop of product goes down.
Epoxy ambers under UV. That's a property of the resin, not a mark against the installer, and it's precisely why we never leave epoxy as the surface you see. The aliphatic polyaspartic topcoat over it is UV-stable, so a west-facing Greenville garage with the door up all afternoon in July holds its color instead of drifting yellow.
Hot-tire pickup happens when warm, soft rubber grabs a coating that's either too soft or poorly bonded and pulls it off the slab in rings. A polyaspartic topcoat stays hard, and a diamond-ground profile gives the whole system something to grip. Come home off a summer run down I-85 and park on it — the tires release clean.
That's the wrong question, honestly — the two materials do different jobs and we use both in the same floor. Epoxy brings film build, color depth, and a mechanical grip down into the profiled concrete. Polyaspartic brings fast cure, UV stability, and chemical resistance. A 100%-solids epoxy base, flake broadcast into it, polyaspartic on top. Each one covers the other's weak spot.
Depends which layer you mean. As a wear surface, polyaspartic beats epoxy outright — better UV stability, faster cure, better hot-tire behavior. As a basecoat, nothing matches 100%-solids epoxy for film build and bond at the price. A contractor pushing one product across the whole floor is making their day easier, not your floor better.
Layers, not brands. A slab ground to profile, a 100%-solids epoxy base, a full broadcast of flake or quartz, and a polyaspartic wear coat will outlast any single-product system sold. What actually decides how long a floor survives is total film thickness and bond strength, and you don't get either one by picking a different label.
Nothing's stopping you, and on a lightly used slab a kit may give you a few decent years. Here's what the box doesn't tell you: the material is thin, usually water-based, and the prep step is an acid etch rather than a mechanical grind — which is why so many kits let go between years two and five. Add up grinder rental, materials, and a lost weekend and the gap to a professional quote closes faster than people expect.
Only once the old one's been dealt with. A coating that's already letting go isn't really a surface — it's a layer of loose material, and anything we put on top of it is bonded to something that's already quit. So the old system comes off with the grinder, back to bare sound concrete, and we start the profile from scratch. That's extra labor, it shows as its own line on your estimate, and you'll hear about it before you sign.
One day covers most Greenville garages. The crew grinds and preps first thing, patches what needs patching, rolls the pigmented basecoat and broadcasts flake into it wet, then comes back over the top with polyaspartic before packing up. Shops, warehouses and bigger commercial slabs run longer than that — we'll put the day count on your estimate so nobody's guessing.
Roughly 4 hours on foot, 24 hours for vehicles. That timeline comes from the polyaspartic, which cures fast enough to hand the garage back the next day. A floor topped with straight epoxy would keep you parked in the driveway for the better part of a week — that's a real cost people forget to weigh when they're comparing quotes.
Four layers on a typical job, five when the slab calls for it: a vapor-barrier primer where the moisture reading warrants one, a pigmented 100%-solids epoxy basecoat rolled edge to edge, vinyl flake broadcast until the surface refuses more, and a clear polyaspartic topcoat. Between the broadcast and the topcoat the floor gets scraped flat and vacuumed clean — we don't skip that step to save an hour.
Sweep or dust-mop it, and wash it down with a mild cleaner and warm water when it starts to look like it needs it. No wax, no annual sealer, nothing proprietary. Red clay and spring pollen — the two things that coat everything in the Upstate — rinse straight off a non-porous surface, and oil or brake fluid stays up top where a rag can get it instead of soaking into the concrete.
Yes, and without redoing the whole floor. A gouge from a dropped jack stand or a chipped spot near the door gets ground back locally, recoated, and re-flaked. Flake works in your favor here — the random chip pattern breaks up the eye, so a blended repair is genuinely hard to find afterward. Solid-color floors aren't nearly as forgiving about that.
There's no bad month for it. The work happens inside your garage with the door managed, and polyaspartic cures across a wide temperature window, so neither a January cold snap nor an August afternoon stops the job. Slab moisture is the actual variable, and we test for that every time regardless of what the calendar says.
It can, and that's why we test. Piedmont red clay holds water instead of draining it, so a slab poured on clay without a vapor barrier underneath can push moisture up through the concrete for decades. Cap that with a coating and nothing to stop it and you're looking at blistering and delamination later. We take a reading on every Greenville County slab and prime with a vapor barrier where the numbers call for one.
Greenville drops below freezing on about 44 nights a year, then climbs back into the low 50s most winter afternoons — roughly forty freeze-thaw cycles a season, close to double what the coast sees. Water in the top layer of concrete expands about 9% when it freezes and fractures the paste from the inside. That's why aprons and door lines here scale and spall. A bonded, non-porous system keeps water out of that layer to begin with.
Mold needs standing moisture and something organic to feed on. A fully bonded, non-porous coating over a slab we've already tested leaves no void for water to collect in and nothing to eat. The failure case is a coating laid on a damp clay-bound slab with no vapor barrier — moisture gathers at the bond line, the coating lifts, and now there's a cavity. Testing first is what prevents it.
Yes — Greenville proper plus Berea, Wade Hampton, Taylors, Conestee, Mauldin, Travelers Rest, Powdersville, Piedmont, Five Forks, Greer, Easley, Simpsonville, Slater-Marietta, Duncan, Fountain Inn, Williamston, Pickens, Spartanburg, Anderson, and Clemson. That covers most of Greenville County plus the nearby Spartanburg, Pickens, and Anderson County towns. Not seeing your town on the list? Call (904) 595-9792 and we'll tell you straight whether you're in range.
Customer Reviews
What Customers Across FL, GA & SC Say
5Based on 208 Google reviews across all our locations
SSuzanne Doblera week ago
Blake and his crew did a great job of preparing our previously coated floor by diamond grinding it, vacuuming it and then applying their epoxy with flakes and non slip top coat. Our garage floor was transformed. The crew was friendly and communication on all aspects of the job was top notch.
KKaren Garcia6 months ago
What a great experience working with Apex Epoxy Flooring! The team was professional, punctual, detailed, and gave me great advice for maintaing the floor. My 20x22 sqft garage floor has never looked so good.
CCarter Hall7 months ago
Elite level flooring from Apex. They use a commercial grade product that lasts a lifetime.
EEdith Hart8 months ago
Apex's suggestion to go with epoxy instead of floor paint when I first called them for info was spot on. We’re really happy with how our basement floor turned out and the fact that it is safe if it floods agian. Big thanks to Apex for a fabulous job!
RRobert Lawson8 months ago
Apex Epoxy Flooring did a great job on my basement. The crew was easy to deal with and knew what they were doing. Can’t wait to have them do my garage next.
AAndrew Cliffhinger9 months ago
Apex Epoxy Flooring gave my two car garage a flake epoxy floor for a very decent price. Their deal on the 2 car garage is well worth the product they use. If you need epoxy work, Apex is the way to go.
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