Apex installs epoxy and polyaspartic garage floors across St. Johns County — our own crews, a written 25-year warranty, and a one-day install on most homes, historic district or new build.
Twenty-five years of coverage on a signed page, and it moves to whoever owns the property next — no small thing in a town where a house can become a rental between one season and the next. The crew that grinds your slab is the crew that coats it.
Four Answers Worth Getting From Anyone Bidding Your Slab Epoxy Floor Coatings
01
Free Quote
One itemized price, written out before we pull off your street, and the invoice reads the same. Nothing on it expires, so take as long as you need with the decision.
02
Diamond-Grind Prep
We profile the concrete mechanically on every job, new slabs included. It's the one layer that can't be corrected afterward — everything above it is riding on that first pass being right.
03
1-Day Install
Walk on it in 4 hours. Drive on it in 24. Back to normal by tomorrow.
04
25-Year Warranty
Written, transferable, and backed by the local Apex location that installed it.
500+Garage Floors
“I’m so happy with my coating! These folks are wonderful at what they do.”
— RODNEY ARNOLD, Google Review
“Elite level flooring from Apex. They use a commercial grade product that lasts a lifetime.”
— CARTER HALL, Google Review
“Apex Epoxy Flooring did a great job on my basement. The crew was easy to deal with and knew what they were doing. Can’t wait to have them do my garage next.”
— ROBERT LAWSON, Google Review
4.8
Based on 208 Google reviews
Industries We Serve
Apex Epoxy Flooring Services & Coatingsfor St. Augustine garages, homes & businesses.
The oldest concrete in the country and slabs poured last spring are both on this list. Hover the industry closest to yours. Hover any industry to see the fit.
Explore our most popular flake, metallic, solid-color and marble finishes. We bring physical samples to every free in-home estimate so you can see them on your slab.
Printed colors may vary slightly from the actual finish. Ask for a physical sample.
8 marble epoxy designs — plus custom pours
Unlimited Color PatternsCustom pours — any look you want
Printed colors may vary slightly from the actual finish. Ask for a physical sample.
Our Garage Floor Coating Process
How We Build a
Professionally Installed Epoxy Floor.
Most peeling epoxy floor installations don't fail at the topcoat — There is no typical garage floor in St. Johns County. Half our work here is on concrete poured before anybody alive can remember, in a district where the truck parks where it fits and the hose runs down the street. The other half is on slabs three years old in Nocatee and World Golf Village that are genuinely harder to prep than the antiques. Same four layers, two entirely different mornings.
Old sand, a water table sitting close, and Atlantic salt around everything — plus slabs that are either older than the state or newer than the subdivision sign. The list under each layer is the same; the prep never is.
01
Prepared Concrete Slabdiamond-ground to CSP-2/3
Your existing slab, mechanically profiled to a Concrete Surface Profile of 2 to 3. Cracks patched. Moisture verified. Every layer above only lasts if this one is right.
A pigmented, self-leveling 100%-solids epoxy rolled wet-on-wet directly onto the diamond-ground slab. Delivers the color depth and the film thickness that separates a real floor from a paint job.
03
Vinyl Flake Broadcasthand-cast to full rejection
Vinyl chip flakes hand-broadcast into the wet basecoat until the surface refuses more. Cured overnight, scraped flat, vacuumed. Color, camouflage, and slip-grip in one.
04
Polyaspartic TopcoatUV-stable, chemical-resistant
The wear surface is a clear UV-stable aliphatic polyaspartic — aliphatic being the part that decides whether the floor still matches in five years, because epoxy ambers in daylight and an aromatic topcoat ambers right along with it. Atlantic salt gets nothing to work into, since the film is seamless and non-porous with no seam or grout line anywhere. And the 25-year warranty is in writing and transfers to the next owner, which in a county growing at this rate is a line worth reading twice.
From Free Estimate to Final Walk-Through
1
Free Estimate
A free visit at the house: bays measured, slab read for moisture, colors set down on your own concrete, one installed number written.
2
Diamond Grind
We mechanically diamond-grind your slab to the right profile.
3
Application
100% solids epoxy, flake broadcast, and polyaspartic topcoat.
4
Final Walk-Thru
We walk the finished floor with you before we leave.
Ready to book your free estimate?
Real flake boards come out to your garage and get set on your own concrete, and most visits finish with a firm installed price on the spot. If getting a truck onto your street is going to be awkward, say so when you call — (904) 595-9792.
Garages, commercial kitchens, warehouse bays, kennels, utility rooms — all of it our own crews, shot on site with the trailer still in the driveway. Every photo carries a gold handle. Pull it across and you'll see what we started from. Drag the gold handle on any floor to reveal the finished result.
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BEFOREAFTER
Warehouse Floor·Industrial·drag to compare
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2-Car Garage·Residential·Gray Flake Epoxy·drag to compare
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Commercial Kitchen·Commercial·drag to compare
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Basement·Residential·Metallic Epoxy·drag to compare
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BEFOREAFTER
Stadium Concourse·Commercial·drag to compare
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BEFOREAFTER
Garage, Repaired Slab·Residential·Flake Epoxy·drag to compare
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BEFOREAFTER
Veterinary Kennel·Commercial·drag to compare
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BEFOREAFTER
Basement·Residential·Tan Flake Epoxy·drag to compare
Your price comes down to the finish you choose and the condition of your slab. These are honest, installed starting prices for a typical St. Augustine 2-car and 3-car garage.
Finish
Starting Price
2-Car (~450 sq ft)
3-Car (~650 sq ft)
Best For
Solid Epoxy
$4per sq ft
~$1,800
~$2,600
Clean, budget-friendly single color
Flake EpoxyMost Popular
$6per sq ft
$2,700$2,300
$3,900$2,700
Most garages — hides flaws, adds grip
Quartz Epoxy
$6per sq ft
~$2,700
~$3,900
Maximum slip resistance & durability
Metallic Epoxy
$9per sq ft
~$4,050
~$5,850
High-end, marbled showpiece look
Both figures already carry the prep: the grind, the routed and filled cracks, the moisture test, all three coats, and the warranty document. We confirm the number against your own concrete and then it stops moving. There's no surcharge for the run out to Hastings or up to Ponte Vedra.
Serving the Greater St. Augustine, SC Area
Epoxy Flooring Near Me
Professional epoxy & garage floor coatings across St. Augustine and the surrounding St. Augustine communities.
Upgrade Your St. Augustine Garage Floor in 1 Day - Free Estimate
Book Your Trusted St. Augustine Epoxy Flooring Contractor - Free Quote
Free Consultation
Contact us today for a no-cost consultation where we evaluate your flooring needs, provide an estimated price based on square footage, and recommend the best epoxy flooring solutions tailored specifically for you.
Diamond Grinding Floor Prep
We use a diamond propane grinder to meticulously prepare your floor, ensuring a smooth, flawless surface that maximizes the adhesion and longevity of your epoxy floor coating.
Multi-Layered Epoxy Floor Installation
Our team applies multiple layers of premium epoxy resin flooring, each layer enhancing the durability, aesthetics, and overall performance of your new epoxy floor.
Curing & Final Inspection
We ensure the epoxy floor coating cures properly to achieve maximum strength and conduct a thorough final inspection to guarantee your complete satisfaction with the finished project.
We use both — that's the whole point. Epoxy goes down first because it grips the ground profile and builds the film thickness you're paying for. Aliphatic polyaspartic goes over the top because it holds its color in daylight and takes a car in 24 hours. Run them in that order and neither material has to do the other one's job.
St. Augustine Epoxy FAQs
Answers From Our Epoxy Flooring Professionals
The questions St. Augustine homeowners actually search before coating a garage floor — answered honestly, including the downsides.
Read the coverage number printed on the box and you'll mostly have your answer. A kit claiming a whole two-car garage out of one carton is telling you how little material ends up on your concrete. The acid packet is the other tell — it cleans a surface without cutting a profile into it, so the film lies on the slab instead of gripping into it. On a light-duty floor that can look fine for a few years. It rarely looks fine at ten.
Sometimes — the old floor decides that, not us. Anything we lay down borrows the grip of whatever's beneath it, so if the existing coating releases in five years, ours goes with it and you'll have paid for two floors and kept neither. We test adhesion at the estimate. If it doesn't hold, the old system comes off to bare concrete, and that grinding is priced openly before you agree to anything.
There's nothing to choose. Your floor gets both, because they're asked to do opposite jobs. The epoxy goes down thick and locks into the ground concrete, and it's the part you never see again. The polyaspartic is what you look at and park on, chosen because it cures in hours and doesn't mind sunlight. The interesting question is what goes between them — on our floors that's vinyl flake, hand-cast into the epoxy while it's still wet.
Two questions predict that better than any product name: how deep does the crew grind, and how much material ends up on the slab when they leave. A thin film over a slick surface fails on schedule regardless of the label. Ours is concrete profiled to CSP 2-3, a 100%-solids epoxy body, flake broadcast until the surface stops accepting chips, then aliphatic polyaspartic. There's no version of that stack that gets shorter without getting worse.
Not as a straight swap. The claim usually turns up in an ad for a single-product, one-day floor, and what those buy is cure speed — paid for in film thickness, which is the thing that has to wear through before you see concrete again. The real improvement isn't chemical so much as positional: keep 100%-solids epoxy as the body, and put an aliphatic polyaspartic where the sun and the tires actually land.
One day for a residential garage — that's the whole install, not a stage of it. Commercial work is a bigger scope and often takes two. What surprises people is that a good part of that day is cure time we're waiting out on site, so the room stays ours until we're finished. Everything on the floor needs to be somewhere else before we start, cars included.
Four hours before you're walking on it, twenty-four before a vehicle goes back in. That turnaround is the polyaspartic; finish the same floor in epoxy alone and you'd be parked outside most of a week. One thing worth knowing is that the coating keeps hardening well past the 24-hour mark. For the first week, pick things up instead of sliding them. A loaded tool chest shoved sideways will find that out for you.
Three you'd count, plus a primer underneath when the slab reads wet enough to need one. Pigmented 100%-solids epoxy first, rolled wall to wall. Vinyl flake hand-cast into it wet and kept going until the surface refuses more. Clear aliphatic polyaspartic last. In between, every chip standing proud gets scraped off and vacuumed away — the difference between a floor that feels finished and one that feels like sandpaper.
Mostly it's a list of things you don't have to do. No wax step, no yearly reseal, no special product to keep on a shelf. A broom covers the week and mild soap with warm water covers anything worse. The one habit worth keeping is sweeping the grit out, because sand tracked in off Anastasia Island or Vilano Beach is the only thing on a garage floor abrasive enough to matter. Oil sits on top until you wipe it up.
The damaged patch gets ground back, rebuilt and re-flaked — just that patch, not the room. The honest detail is that color isn't usually what gives a repair away. Gloss is. A fresh patch reads slightly brighter than five-year-old topcoat around it for a while, then evens out. Flake helps either way, since the chip pattern is random and leaves the eye no line to follow. A flat color shows every touch-up from the doorway.
Chemically, no. This is indoor work and the topcoat handles a wide temperature range, so the calendar doesn't decide anything. The variable we actually plan around is the slab itself, and we test that regardless of season. Downtown there's a second consideration, and it isn't the weather — a weekday morning is a far easier time to put a truck and a grinder on a narrow street than a busy weekend.
A standard 2-car is $2,300 installed and a 3-car is $2,700 — finished prices, not opening bids. Most 2-car garages here run $1,800 to $2,700, and what moves a job inside that band is the concrete, never the address. The trade at large quotes $5 to $15 a square foot, which is that wide because it's really a range for preparation. You get one figure at the free estimate, after we've been on your floor.
Four hundred square feet is a standard 2-car, and where the concrete is already sound the answer is the $2,300 installed figure with nothing added to it. The tape stops being useful after that, because the rest of the job is the part you can't measure. Downtown we're often quoting a floor that's been painted, sealed and patched by three or four owners, and every one of those layers is machine time. Out on the west side of the county, a bay handed over two springs ago is closed and hard at the surface and takes its own kind of grinding. Whatever either one adds is on the estimate in writing, and it doesn't move afterward.
There's a band, and it's more useful than an average: $1,800 to $2,700 around St. Augustine for a floor that's built rather than painted on. Ours sits at $2,300 for a 2-car. An average would flatten the only thing that matters here, which is that a garage added behind a downtown house in 1950 and a bay handed over in Nocatee last spring measure the same on paper and are nowhere near the same day's work.
Grinding costs money every single time it's done. Diamond tooling wears out, the machine burns hours, and the dust has to be collected — so there's a standing incentive to skip it, and nobody can tell from the driveway whether it happened. Drop the grind, the crack repair and the moisture reading and a bid can be almost anything. In this county the gap widens further, since a 1920s slab and a 2020s one need very different amounts of it.
Every one of them — diamond-grind prep to a CSP 2-3 profile, crack and pit repair, moisture testing, a pigmented 100%-solids epoxy basecoat, a full vinyl flake broadcast, and a UV-stable aliphatic polyaspartic topcoat, plus a written 25-year warranty that transfers if you sell. Two things people brace for and won't see: a trip charge, and a revised price once the grinder shows what was under the surface. We look before we quote so we don't have to.
Less than tile, though price isn't the strongest argument against tile here. Grout lines with a cavity underneath are a poor idea in any garage that has ever taken water, and plenty near the water have. Polished concrete lands close on cost and it's an honest finish, but polishing takes material away rather than adding any — so you keep the slab's own color, its own patches and its own porosity.
It depends which garage you have, and we'll tell you which one that is. If yours is a working room — tools, a project car, a freezer, bikes in and out — a sealed floor changes how you use it every week. If it's a bay you park in and shut, the gain is real but smaller: less dust, no oil soaking in, a floor that hoses off. What's never worth buying is the coating without the grinding under it.
The one worth thinking hard about is that this is a decision you make once. A properly bonded system isn't something you scrape up and change your mind about — getting one back off is machine work, and it costs more than the install did. So the real question isn't whether you'll still like the color, it's whether the crew grinds. The rest is manageable: gloss and water are slick, which flake solves, and bare epoxy ambers, which the topcoat solves.
A few times a year, and we say so out loud. Concrete that hasn't finished moving will push its crack back up through whatever we lay over it. A slab driving moisture upward with nothing done about the source will blister. And around here there's a third case — a floor that isn't really a floor, like a thin exterior pour under a carport somebody walled in. Turning that down costs us a job. It costs less than a failure.
Less than dry concrete, considerably more than bare gloss — that's the honest version. What separates ours is that the flake isn't printed on. It's cast into wet epoxy and left standing slightly proud, so there's real texture under a shoe. If footing matters for anyone who uses the room, or the floor gets rinsed out regularly, say so at the estimate and extra slip aggregate goes into the topcoat.
Appraisers don't have a line for it. Buyers do, and in this county that counts for more than most. St. Johns has been one of the fastest-growing counties in Florida for years, and new construction keeps arriving — so a house from the 1980s competes head-on with one finished last year. A finished floor is one of the few advantages an older house hands a buyer outright. The written 25-year warranty transfers with the property.
Ten to twenty for professional work, and plenty run past that. It's worth understanding what actually expires, though — the resin doesn't wear out on a schedule, the bond does. Floors that failed young failed at the concrete, not in the middle of the film. Ours carries a written 25-year warranty that transfers with the house. That's a warranty on a bond, which is the only thing a floor warranty can honestly be.
It dulls where the tires sit and changes almost nowhere else — flake blends are busy enough to swallow five years of ordinary scuffing. The place to look is the perimeter. On a newer bay out toward Nocatee or SilverLeaf, the edges are square and easy to seal. On an older downtown garage, the coating has to be carried into a threshold that isn't square anymore, and by year five that detail is either still holding or it isn't.
Two different things, and neither happens on a slab we've read first. Blisters are water vapor with nowhere left to go, and on sandy ground with the water table sitting close, vapor here is always heading up — so a moisture reading comes before a price, and a vapor-barrier primer goes down when the numbers ask for one. Letting go is simpler: a coating grips a profile or it doesn't. That's the entire job of the diamond grinder.
Epoxy does on its own, which is why we never leave epoxy as the layer you can see. The topcoat above it is aliphatic polyaspartic, and that first word is the whole answer — aromatic versions of the same chemistry drift yellow right alongside epoxy. Most quotes print the family name and stop there. It's a fair thing to ask any contractor to look up on their own data sheet before you sign.
Nothing, on a floor that's keyed in — and the failure this is named after isn't really about heat. A warm tire softens whatever it's parked on, sticks to it, then shrinks as it cools and tries to take a piece along. Whether it succeeds gets decided underneath. Ground concrete holds. A slick troweled surface never did. So the defense is the grinder first and a hard aliphatic wear layer second, in that order of importance.
Usually, and it's the first thing we sort out rather than the last. Downtown still follows the street plan the Spanish laid out in the 1500s — narrow lanes, small blocks, tight corners, and very little room to stage a trailer, a grinder and dust collection. Sometimes the fix is a weekday morning. Sometimes it's parking further off and running cord and hose in. Give us the address and we'll walk it before anything gets scheduled.
Often there is, just not what you'd picture. In Lincolnville the coatable concrete is usually a detached garage added long after the house, a slab-on-grade addition, a carport somebody walled in later, or the driveway apron. Two things get checked before any of it gets priced: whether that slab took brackish water in Hurricane Matthew or Irma, and whether it's a real slab at all. Sometimes the honest answer is that it isn't a candidate.
It changes what we touch. Coquina is soft shell stone, and nothing we do goes near it — a diamond grinder belongs on a concrete floor and nowhere else. What we'd want to look at is what's underfoot, because in older buildings around here that's often brick, or a later pour laid over something else, rather than the slab a coating needs. We'd rather come look at the floor than guess from a photo.
All of it. A town list misleads, since the county holds just two incorporated cities — St. Augustine and St. Augustine Beach — and nearly everything else is unincorporated. So: St. Augustine South, St. Augustine Shores, Vilano Beach, Butler Beach, Crescent Beach and Summer Haven; Elkton, Hastings, Spuds, Armstrong and Flagler Estates inland; World Golf Village, SilverLeaf, St. Johns, Nocatee, Palm Valley, Ponte Vedra Beach, Sawgrass, Fruit Cove and Switzerland north. We cover it all from Jacksonville, 40 miles north. If you're nearby and not listed, call (904) 595-9792.
Customer Reviews
Apex Reviews From the St. Augustine area
5Based on 208 Google reviews across all our locations
SSuzanne Doblera week ago
Blake and his crew did a great job of preparing our previously coated floor by diamond grinding it, vacuuming it and then applying their epoxy with flakes and non slip top coat. Our garage floor was transformed. The crew was friendly and communication on all aspects of the job was top notch.
KKaren Garcia6 months ago
What a great experience working with Apex Epoxy Flooring! The team was professional, punctual, detailed, and gave me great advice for maintaing the floor. My 20x22 sqft garage floor has never looked so good.
CCarter Hall7 months ago
Elite level flooring from Apex. They use a commercial grade product that lasts a lifetime.
EEdith Hart8 months ago
Apex's suggestion to go with epoxy instead of floor paint when I first called them for info was spot on. We’re really happy with how our basement floor turned out and the fact that it is safe if it floods agian. Big thanks to Apex for a fabulous job!
RRobert Lawson8 months ago
Apex Epoxy Flooring did a great job on my basement. The crew was easy to deal with and knew what they were doing. Can’t wait to have them do my garage next.
AAndrew Cliffhinger9 months ago
Apex Epoxy Flooring of St. Augustine gave my two car garage a flake epoxy floor for a very decent price. Their deal on the 2 car garage is well worth the product they use. If you need epoxy work around St. Augustine, Apex is the way to go.
For just $2,700, give your 3-car garage a professional epoxy flooring finish backed by our lifetime warranty. Fill out this form below to take advantage of this limited time offer!
2 Car Garage floors for Just $2300
For just $2,300, give your 2-car garage a professional epoxy flooring finish backed by our lifetime warranty. Fill out this form below to take advantage of this limited time offer!
3 Car Garage Flooring for Just $2700
For just $2,700, give your 3-car garage a professional epoxy flooring finish backed by our lifetime warranty. Fill out this form below to take advantage of this limited time offer!
2 Car Garage floors for Just $2300
For just $2,300, give your 2-car garage a professional epoxy flooring finish backed by our lifetime warranty. Fill out this form below to take advantage of this limited time offer!
Get Started Now
Ready to upgrade your garage with Apex Epoxy Flooring? Fill out the form below, and let us handle the rest. Whether it’s a 2-car or 3-car garage, we’re here to deliver top-notch service.
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